Ajrakh vs Bagru block print: what is the difference?
Ajrakh and Bagru are both hand block-printed textiles, but they come from different places and look different. Ajrakh, from Kutch in Gujarat and Sindh, uses dense geometric patterns in indigo and madder red, often printed on both sides. Bagru, from a village near Jaipur, uses floral and leaf motifs in earthy black, red and ochre, often with a mud-resist (dabu) stage.
Ajrakh and Bagru side by side
| Ajrakh | Bagru | |
|---|---|---|
| Where it is made | Kutch, Gujarat (Ajrakhpur, Dhamadka), Barmer in Rajasthan, and Sindh in Pakistan | Bagru village, about 30 km from Jaipur, Rajasthan |
| Printing community | Mainly the Khatri community | Mainly the Chhipa community |
| Typical motifs | Dense, symmetrical geometric grids, stars and medallions | Floral sprigs, leaves, buds and small repeating butis |
| Typical colours | Deep indigo blue and madder red, with black and white outlines | Earthy black, rust red, ochre and indigo on an off-white or dyed ground |
| Key technique | Many rounds of resist printing, dyeing and washing; traditionally printed on both faces | Direct printing (syahi-begar) and dabu mud-resist printing, often dyed in indigo |
| Look and feel | Bold, all-over pattern with a rich, layered depth of colour | Softer, more open patterns with a rustic, hand-stamped feel |
How Ajrakh is made
Ajrakh is a resist-dyed cloth. The fabric is first scoured and treated, then printed with resists and mordants using carved wooden blocks, dyed, washed and printed again. A traditional piece goes through many separate stages and can take a couple of weeks. Natural indigo gives the blues and madder or alizarin gives the reds. Because the pattern is usually printed on both faces, a well-made Ajrakh looks nearly as good on the reverse as on the front.
How Bagru is made
Bagru printers use two main methods. In syahi-begar printing, black (from iron and jaggery) and red (from alum) outlines are printed straight onto cloth pre-treated with harda (myrobalan), which gives the ground its creamy yellow tint. In dabu printing, a paste of clay, gum and lime is printed as a resist, sprinkled with sawdust and the cloth is dyed, usually in indigo, so the pattern stays pale where the mud sat. Bagru Hand Block Print is a registered geographical indication (GI).
How to tell them apart at a glance
- Look at the motif. Tight geometric stars and grids point to Ajrakh; flowers, leaves and scattered buds point to Bagru.
- Look at the palette. Indigo and deep red together suggest Ajrakh; black and rust on a creamy ground suggest Bagru.
- Turn it over. Ajrakh is often printed on both faces. Most Bagru is printed on one side.
- Look for small irregularities. In both crafts, slight misalignment where blocks meet and tiny variations in colour are signs of hand printing, not defects. Perfectly uniform repeats usually mean screen or digital printing.
Which should you choose?
Choose Ajrakh for a bold statement piece, such as a stole, a dupatta or a bedcover, where the depth of indigo and red can be seen. Choose Bagru for everyday wear and home linen, where its softer florals are easy to live with. Both use natural dyes that can release a little colour in the first washes, so wash separately in cold water and dry in the shade.
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Quick answers
What is the difference between Ajrakh and Bagru print?
Ajrakh comes from Kutch and Sindh and uses dense geometric patterns in indigo and madder red, often printed on both sides. Bagru comes from a village near Jaipur and uses floral motifs in black, rust and ochre, often with a mud-resist (dabu) stage.
Is Ajrakh a type of block print?
Yes. Ajrakh is a resist-dyed, hand block-printed textile, made through many rounds of printing, dyeing and washing.
Is Bagru the same as Sanganeri print?
No. Both come from near Jaipur, but Bagru favours earthy colours and dabu mud-resist on a creamy ground, while Sanganeri prints are usually finer, brighter florals on a white ground.
Do Ajrakh and Bagru fabrics bleed colour?
Natural dyes can release a little colour in the first few washes. Wash separately in cold water with a mild detergent and dry in the shade.
How can I tell if a print is hand block-printed?
Look for slight misalignment where blocks meet, small variations in colour and a pattern that is not perfectly uniform. Perfect repeats with sharp edges usually mean screen or digital printing.
Sources and further reading
Last reviewed 12 November 2026 by the TGA craft desk.